Showing posts with label Civil War. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Civil War. Show all posts

Monday, January 18, 2016

Pensacola Lighthouse

Pensacola Lighthouse from the beach
My Dad was in the Navy when I was growing up, and we moved all over the country in those first years, literally from sea to shining sea.  Some of my first memories are of the sounds of Newport, Rhode Island:  The sirens that sounded nothing like those on Dragnet (but sound like those in England); and the foghorn:  BAAAHHHHHHH-rummmmmmmm; silence;  BAAAHHHHHHH-rummmmmmmm.....  The foghorn works with a lighthouse to mark rocks/reefs/shoals and safe entrance to the harbor.

Lighthouses have always proved interesting to me.  At once utilitarian in function and aesthetic in design.  The sweeping beam that shows this navigational point to mariners for miles out to sea.  The earliest lighthouses were platforms upon which fires were built and lit at night.  The Argand lamp brought a smokeless light that could be placed in an enclosed tower, powered by whale oil.  Thorium lantern mantles provided a much brighter source of light.  Steam driven magnetos allowed electricity to be used to power carbon arc lamps.  The sun valve (which turned off gas flow during the day) and associated technology allowed the use of gas as a light source, until electric light technology became the standard.  Lights were rotated using multiple light sources and a clockwork system.  If the clockwork system failed, the works had to be turned by hand.

The first Pensacola Lighthouses



View next to Carriage House
The current Pensacola Lighthouse is the third example of a navigational light placed near this point.  The first Pensacola Light was a lightship, the Aurora Borealis, and was placed on the harbor side of Santa Rosa Island.  Although protected from the rough sea, it was often difficult to see from outside of the bay.

The second lighthouse was a 40 foot tower built on a 40 foot bluff at the mouth of the harbor, just west of Fort Barrancas and about a half mile east of the current lighthouse.  This building was entirely white and had 10 whale oil lamps in two clusters of five rotated by a clockwork and strengthened by a 14-inch reflector. An advantage of this light was that ships could follow the beam to enter the harbor, which was not possible with the placement of the light ship.  Despite the higher position, views of the  tower could still be blocked by trees close to the tower and those on Santa Rosa Island.  This first light would appear very stocky, 30 feet wide at the base, 15 feet wide at the top and 40 feet tall.

The third and current lighthouse

Lamp and lens - see the rainbow?
The current lighthouse was built in 1858 on the north side of the harbor entrance and entered service on 01 January 1859.  This tower is 150 feet tall on the side of a 40 foot bluff currently located on Naval Air Station Pensacola.  The light is 190 feet above sea level, which provides a considerable boost in visibility distance.  The lighthouse placement allows it to serve as the rear range light for the harbor entrance.  Range lights work in pairs, front and rear.  The rear light is always placed higher than the front light.  When the two lights form a vertical pair, the observer is on the navigation line.  If the front appears to the left of the rear, then the observer is right of the range line; if the front appears to the right of the rear, then the observer is left of range line.

Lens detail
The first lens for this light was a first order Fresnel lens.  These lenses had a large aperture and short focal length, this lens allows for more light to be collected from oblique sources.  These lights project a beam over a much broader distance.  The lens is divided into concentric annular sections.  A first order lens has a focal length of 920 mm and height of 2.59 meters.

When the US Civil War broke out in 1861, the harbor and the adjoining Navy Yard became a military target.  Union forces withdrew from Fort Barrancas and Fort McRee to Fort Pickens on Santa Rosa Island, leaving most of the harbor defenses and the Navy Yard in Confederate hands.  An artillery battle between Confederates in Ft. Barrancas and Ft. McRee on Perdido Key and the Union forces in Ft. Pickens on Santa Rosa Island broke out on 22 November 1861.  Shore batteries around the lighthouse became targets for Ft. Pickens.  During this time, the tower suffered about 6 hits.  Fortunately, none of the damage threatened the structural integrity of the tower. The Confederates evacuated Pensacola in May 1862. When Union forces came back to the tower, they found that the Confederates took the Fresnel lens with them.  On 20 December 1862, Union forces placed a fourth-order Fresnel lens in the tower, putting the tower back into service.

Entrance to Pensacola Bay
At the end of the war, the original Fresnel lens was recovered and put back into place in 1869.  The lightkeeper's residence was also built in 1869.  The daymark (paint scheme) of the tower was originally completely white, making it difficult to distinguish against a cloudy sky.  During the 1869 upgrades, the daymark was changed so that the lower third of the tower was left white to contrast it with nearby trees and the upper two-thirds of the tower was painted black to stand out against the sky. Electricity was installed in the light tower in 1939, which eliminated the need to rewind the clockwork by hand every 4 1/2 hours.

Fort Pickens on Santa Rosa Island
The light signature of this lighthouse is one white flash every 20 seconds.  The beam is very strong, being visible for 27 miles out to sea.  The lens continues to rotate during the day, even though the light is not powered.  This is necessary because the lens can focus a beam of light onto the wall of the lighthouse, creating a spot hot enough to damage the metal and masonry of the light room.  If the lighthouse loses electricity, the lens has to be moved by hand every few minutes to prevent this.

Stairs going down --- gives me the willies
The first lighthouse tower was constructed under the supervision of the Department of Treasury's Lighthouse Establishment (1791-1851).  The US Lighthouse Board of the Department of Treasury (1852-1910) was in charge during the construction of the second tower.  A more civilian Lighthouse Service within the Department of Commerce.  The Lighthouse Service was merged with the US Coast Guard in 1939 and light keepers were able to choose to remain civilians or join the Coast Guard.  The last civilian lightkeeper at Pensacola retired in 1953.  The Coast Guard operated the lighthouse from that point.  Automation reduced staffing needs in 1965.

End of Santa Rosa Island
The lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.  By the 1980s, the site was in disrepair and a push to dismantle the outbuildings and perhaps the tower was increasing. The tower was seen as a potential hazard to jets flying out of NAS Pensacola.   Push-back from a preservation movement saved the Keeper's House and outbuildings from destruction.  In 1996, Coast Guard Auxiliary 17 started conducting tours of the lighthouse.  These were discontinued in 2007 due to liability concerns, and the grounds closed to the public.  The spiral staircase can be treacherous, with a railing only on the outside edge of the staircase.  The inside edge is unlined.  During the 177 stair climb, downstairs traffic has the right of way.  It is best for upstairs traffic to move toward the inside and hold onto a step at about eye-level, unless you can step into one of the deep window wells to let traffic pass.

In 2008, the Coast Guard allowed tours to resume under the supervision of the Pensacola Lighthouse Association.  Renovations continue on site.  The guide at the top of the tower was very well informed and helpful.  A small entry fee is charged to the site: $6.00 per adult when we went there.  The site is becoming increasingly popular, and there are a variety of tours with limited openings available at night, during Blue Angels practices and for Ghost tours.  Looking for a good place to propose?  This might be it.  Check the beach to see if someone has stomped out your message already, might save you some time and effort.

Getting There


The Pensacola Lighthouse is on the grounds of Naval Air Station Pensacola.  You will be required to present a valid picture ID for every adult in the vehicle and perhaps allow a search of the vehicle.  Have the IDs ready when you pull up to the gate.  The way is well marked, just follow the signs.  It is easy to see from the Museum of Naval Aviation.

Street Address: 2081 Radford Blvd, Pensacola, FL 32508

Waypoint: Latitude 30.3461433 degrees N ; Longitude 87.3104028 degrees W

Further Reading:

Pensacola Lighthouse and Museum


More views from the top


Lens detail

Fort McRee eroding into sea at end of Perdido Key


Above the airfield water tower

Carriage House - visitors center

Tip of Perdido Key


The kids at the top

Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Grave Matters: Missouri's Swamp Fox

Meriwether Jeff Thompson c. 1857
All Jeff Thompson wanted to be when he grew up was a soldier.  It was a gentlemanly pursuit in his native Virginia.  He would realize that dream, but only after a long delay.  Attending military school in Charleston, Virginia (now West Virginia) from the age of 14, he applied for admission to the Military Academy at West Point, as well as Virginia Military Institute, but was turned down by both institutions.  It seemed that life at a store was in the cards for Jeff, which must have stung for a man coming from a military family.

He wandered the country a bit, starting out from his native Harper's Ferry, Virginia (now West Virginia) in 1843, working in stores in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and Frederick City, Maryland, before coming to Liberty, Missouri in 1847.  In 1848, he moved to the bustling town of St. Joseph, Missouri.  Having an aptitude for mathematics, surveying and engineering, he soon became the city engineer.  He reportedly was very charismatic and energetic, qualities which helped him achieve advancement.

In 1851, he obtained a position as a surveyor with the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad.  He went to find a position on the crew and wound up in charge of the surveyors for the preliminary survey.  Eventually supervising the building of the western Missouri section of the railroad, he rode on the first train from Hannibal to St. Joseph.  He took over the controls himself outside of town and drove the first locomotive into St. Joseph in 1858.  While working on the railroad, he became a member of the land company that laid out and promoted the town of Hamilton in Caldwell County.  Among the residents of this town were James Cash Penney, founder of the JC Penneys chain.

Thompson's Engineering Protractor
Learning surveying and mapping on the fly, Thompson was a quick study.  Soon he found the instruments required to draw exact road lines and machinery to be inadequate, and invented his own protractor to aid in producing engineering drawings.  The patent model at the left now resides in the Smithsonian Museum of American History's collection.  It is formally a "Rule for Describing Polygonal Forms" US patent 21,784 issued 12 October 1858.  It is a crude looking instrument, because it was made to illustrate the patented concept, not to function as a working tool.  There is no evidence that the tool ever went into production, and although Thompson invented several instruments, this is the only one for which he pursued a patent.

The executive


For all of his struggles in business as a young man, Jeff Thompson became a man on the move.  He became a military leader, named colonel of his Missouri State Militia unit.  He served as the seventh mayor of St. Joseph from 1857-1860.  He was the president of a gas company, Buchanan County Surveyor, real estate broker, agent for the Platte County Railroad, member of the Elwood (KS) town company, president of the St. Joseph and Maryville Railroad, secretary of the St. Joseph and Louisiana Railroad at the same time that he was St. Joseph mayor.  He surveyed land in Kansas and Nebraska Territories, surveyed the first lines for the St. Joseph and Maryville Railroad, as well as some of the route for the St. Joseph and Topeka Railroad.

You can tell that Thompson was a great proponent of railroads.  He placed the first bags of mail on the horse and delivered a speech at the first running of the Pony Express on 03 April 1860, remarking:

"The day will come when at this very town you may board a train which will take you through to the gold fields, and that within a very few years! More than that, I say that the wilderness which lies between us and that El Dorado will soon blossom as the rose."

The Pony Express was in large part possible because the mail from the East had been expedited by the railroad.  Russell, Majors and Waddell had arranged for westbound mail from Chicago to be routed to Quincy then to the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad.  The railroad continued to be important to mail delivery, and the first mail car for a railroad was designed and used on the Hannibal and St. Joe Railroad.

The General


Col. Jeff Thompson, CSA
Thompson did not run for re-election as St. Joseph mayor.  Business and national politics began to weigh on his mind.  Following the election of Abraham Lincoln as President of the United States and the calling of secession conventions in the South, Thompson was not idle.  Although he was not a slave owner, he thought that slavery was protected in the Consitution and any attempt to abolish it was illegal.  He went to the state capital of Jefferson City and lobbied for passage of a military bill and a secession convention.  He endeavored to "use my little influence to bolster up such weak-kneed and timid Southerners as might be frightened from doing right for fear that a war would be forced upon them."  He was unsuccessful, as the military bill failed to pass and the delegates to the secession convention voted to stay in the Union.  The state that contained a mix of Southern, Western and Northern influences was unraveling and in few places was a war that pitted "brother against brother" fought so brutally.

Brig. Gen. Jeff Thompson, MSG
Frustrated by a governor that espoused the Southern cause, but refused to release money to support activities of the militia, Thompson decided to go to offer his services to his home state of Virginia.  When he left, St. Joseph was so divided that Mayor Armstrong Beattie ordered that no flags be flown anywhere in town.  The new postmaster of St. Joseph decided he was going to raise the US flag at the post office on 22 May 1861.  After the flag was raised, Thompson climbed a ladder to the top of the building, cut the flag down and threw it into the crowd, which tore it to pieces.

Jeff Thompson became a colonel in the Confederate States Army and when given command of the First Division of the Missouri State Guard in July 1861, he became a brigadier general in the State Guard.  He carried out several actions against the Union in southern Missouri, a low area that was very swampy.  He became "Missouri's Swamp Fox" or  "The Swamp Fox of the Confederacy" and his troops were known as the "Swamp Rats".

When Union Gen. John C. Frémont  placed Missouri under martial law and proclaimed emancipation for the slaves of rebels, Thompson issued a counter proclamation.  Thompson led a 1500 man cavalry raid on the Iron Mountain Railroad bridge over Big River in Jefferson County, MO on 15 October 1861.  He then withdrew south, joined up with infantry and decided to attack Union forces at Fredericktown on 21 October with a force of 3000.  In this engagement, the Missouri State Guard was outnumbered.  The Union forces were composed of two columns: 1500 under Col. Joseph Plummer and 3000 under Col. William Carlin.  Thompson deployed the Guard on wooded ridges overlooking the main road, and put Col. Aden Lowe's infantry out in the open as bait.  Lowe's unit met the initial Union force and held their own, but waited too long to retire.  Lowe was killed and his unit took heavy casualties (total Missouri Guard casualties: 25 killed, 40 wounded, 80 captured).  As the Union troops moved forward to capture an artillery piece, they came under heavy fire from the Missouri State Guard.  Thompson was able to withdraw, but the engagement was a Union victory, and consolidated Federal control of southeastern Missouri.

Thompson's troops caught the attention of Union Brig. Gen. US Grant, commander of the District of Southeast Missouri, when Frémont sent word that Thompson was at Indian Ford on the St. Francois River.  Grant was to dispatch troops on 03 November to capture Thompson's force near the Arkansas border.  3000 men under Col. Plummer were to leave Cape Girardeau and 4000 under Col. Richard Oglesby from Bird's Point.  These troops were diverted to meet a greater Confederate threat at Belmont, Missouri as Grant considered Thompson's troops to be ineffective as a fighting force after Frederickstown.

You're in the Army's Navy now


CSS Gen Jeff Thompson in battle line at Plum Point Bend
In 1862, Thompson became involved in the battle to control the Mississippi River, commanding a ram in the Confederate riverine fleet.  It was fairly common to have Army personnel on board ships as gun crews. He commanded enough respect on the field and on the river that a converted sidewheel steamer was outfitted as a "cottonclad ram" and renamed the CSS General Jeff Thompson.  The ship saw its first action at the Battle of Plum Point Bend, about four miles upriver from Ft. Pillow on 10 May 1862. Twelve Federal mortar boats and eight ironclads were tied up there, and the Confederate fleet, with Jeff Thompson on the CSS Gen. Bragg, was going to try to clear them out.  The Union ironclad USS Cincinnati headed out into the shallows where but few of the Confederates could follow.  The CSS Bragg hit the ironclad with a gun volley, but her tiller rope was fouled and she was effectively out of action.  The USS Cincinnati and USS Mound City were rammed and sunk.  The Confederates had to withdraw as their ships needed deeper water to reach the other Union ships.  Their presence did hold off Federal forces long enough to allow Ft. Pillow to be evacuated by 01 June, then the Confederate flotilla headed down to Memphis for refueling and resupply.

CSS Gen Jeff Thompson sinking at Memphis
The CSS Thompson didn't have a long career.  The Union Mississippi River Squadron of ironclads pushed downstream to Memphis.  A lack of fuel meant that the Confederate force could not withdraw, but chose to fight it out on 06 June 1862.  Early in the fight, the Jeff Thompson was hit heavily by Union guns, caught fire and began to sink.  After the crew abandoned ship, she burned to waterline and her magazine caught fire and exploded, sending debris high into the sky.

 Only one of the Confederate ships would escape.  The CSS Gen. Van Dorn was able to head south and find refuge in the Yazoo River.  The rest were destroyed or captured.  Among those that were captured and entered Union service were the Gen. Price and the Gen. Bragg.  This effectively ended Confederate naval presence on the Mississippi River, with the CSS Arkansas later being the only outstanding challenge to the Union.

Explosion of the magazine of the CSS Jeff Thompson

On the road again


St. Charles Hotel in Pocahontas, Arkansas
Jeff Thompson was assigned to duty west of the Mississippi River and was soon in Arkansas.  He joined the second raid into Missouri led by Gen. John Marmaduke.  The raid commenced on 18 April 1863 with 5000 troops, many of which were unarmed and without mounts.  Marmaduke feared the soldiers would desert if he left the unarmed/unmounted behind, and took them along, planning to supply them with captured materiel.  The raid collapsed in defeat following an unplanned and ill-advised attack on Cape Girardeau on 25-26 April.  Given orders to pursue Union troops only if they marched towards Pilot Knob and Fredericktown, Col. George Carter followed General McNeil to heavily fortified Cape Girardeau.  Carter was demoted and Marmaduke had to retreat back to Arkansas.

Brig. Gen. Jeff Thompson at Johnson's Island (front, next to right)
Though this foray into Missouri was a disaster, Thompson proved himself to still be an able commander.  His symbolic value to the Confederate resistance in Missouri was at a high, and he became a prime target for the Union Army.  On 24 August 1863, elements of the Missouri State Militia Cavalry (Union) commanded by Col. Richard G. Woodson of the 3rd Missouri State Militia Cavalry heard that Thompson was in Pochahontas, Arkansas with very little in the way of force.  Woodson ordered Capt. Henry C. Gentry of the 2nd Missouri State Militia Cavalry to ride for town with all haste and arrest the general before he could escape.  Gentry rode into town and arrested Thompson and several officers at the St. Charles Hotel.  Thompson was calmly reviewing maps of southeast Missouri and caught by complete surprise.  The Missouri State Militia Cavalry took their prisoners back to Cape Girardeau, Missouri.  Thompson would be sent to Gratiot Street Prison in St. Louis, Fort Delaware (on Pea Patch Island in the Delaware River) and Johnson's Island (in Lake Erie, near Sandusky, Ohio) prisoner of war camps.  On 03 August 1864 (or 29 July, depending on which history you are reading), he was exchanged for a Union general.


Fort Delaware - Seth Eastman c. 1870

Out of the frying pan, into the fire


Map of Johnson's Island
Soon after his release from Johnson's Island, Thompson returned to the service of the Confederacy.  He joined the Autumn 1864 raid on Missouri with General Sterling Price and 12,000 horsemen.  Thompson took over the command of Gen. J.O. Shelby's "Iron Brigade" as Shelby was now commanded a division.  The whole campaign was fraught with failure. On 27 September 1864, Price attacked Ft. Davidson at Pilot Knob with several uncoordinated attacks from several directions.  The guns of the fort were turned in response to each one.  When the position became defenseless, the Union escaped through a gap in the siege lines, and lit a timed fuse which destroyed the powder magazine and the fort.  The Confederates had the fort, but had suffered 1000 casualties, used up a huge amount of ammunition and had not captured the men or arms of the Union soldiers.  It would now be impossible to capture St. Louis.

Price set his sights on capturing Jefferson City, but found it too heavily defended.  He then turned towards Lexington and Westport (Kansas City).  After victories that provided supplies at Glasgow (15 October), the Little Blue River (east of Independence, MO - 21 October) and Independence (Second Battle - 21-22 October), disease, desertion and casualties caught up with Price.  The dogged fighting by the Union forces under Maj. Gen. James Blunt slowed Price's advance long enough for Gen. Alfred Pleasonton's cavalry force of 10,000 to join the battle.  The Confederate force, which had shrunk to about 8.500,  was decisively defeated by 22,000 Union soldiers at the Battle of Westport (23 October).

Mine Creek looking toward the Union line from the Confederate line.
The Federal line was near the treeline at the horizon.
During the Battle of Westport, the Iron Brigade under Thompson drove the Union troops under Brig. Gen. Thomas Moonlight back into Kansas, and those under Col. Jennison back into Westport.  The Confederates were unable to capitalize on this advantage, running out of ammunition.  In the retreat that followed defeat, Thompson's men would fight a rear guard action to give the Confederates time to escape the field of battle.

Setting sights on the supplies at Fort Scott, Kansas, Price started in that direction, but were pursued by Pleasonton through the night and into the next day.  On 25 October, Price was forced into three engagements: the Battle of Marais des Cynges (Trading Post), the Battle of Mine Creek, and the Battle of the Marmiton River.  All three were heavy losses for Price.  All hope of capturing Fort Scott gone and his forces whittled to fewer than 6000 men, Price had to make a run for Indian Territory (Oklahoma).  Price was pressed into one more engagement near Newtonia, Missouri during which Thompson and the Iron Brigade rode to the front, dismounted and engaged the Federals.  The Federal force was forced back into a cornfield by the Ritchey estate.  When the Union surged forwards, Price had escaped.


Mine Creek Crossing - it was full of water on 25 October 1864
Missouri State Guard Brig. Gen. M. Jeff Thompson was appointed commander of the Northern Sub-District of Arkansas in March of 1865.  By May of 1865, Thompson's command  of 7500 men was one of the largest Confederate forces left in the field.  He made arrangements at Chalk Bluff, Arkansas on 09 May 1865 to surrender his troops.  He marched them to Wittsburg and Jacksonport, Arkansas on 11 May 1865 to lay down their arms and obtain their paroles.

Shelby and Price took their men to Mexico and offered their services to Emperor Maximillian, but they were refused.  Ultimately, Maximillian would face a firing squad following a popular revolt against the European government.  While these men would gain fame as the "undefeated" or "unsurrendered", the war was over for Jeff Thompson.  He became one of the first Confederate officials to apply for reinstatement of citizenship and take the loyalty oath.  His talents as a civil engineer and surveyor won him a post-war position as Surveyor General of Louisiana and Chief State Engineer of Louisiana.  He moved to his wife's hometown of New Orleans, and for several years supervised projects that would control flooding and improve swamp land in Louisiana.  Several histories of Louisiana have praised his competence as an engineer and service to the state.

"Home again and home again"


At some point along the line, Jeff Thompson had contracted tuberculosis, a common respiratory disease of the time.  It is likely that this happened during his Civil War service.  His hard work ethic likely exacerbated the disease, and a tired Thompson returned to St. Joseph, Missouri in 1876.  In short order he passed away at the age of 50 years on 05 September 1876.  The man who wanted to be a soldier but was turned down by major military academies had earned his bones as a high ranking officer for the Confederacy in the Civil War, a politician, businessman, surveyor and civil engineer.  His flood control systems protected St. Joseph and Louisiana for years after his death.  Leading the effort to reconcile the South with the North, he was alternately praised as a model citizen and vilified for abandoning the "Southern cause".

Thompson is buried in a fairly easy to find spot in Mt. Mora Cemetery in St. Joseph, Missouri.  His grave is in a small triangle just southeast of Section L and northeast of Section B.

Jeff Thompson, Mark Twain and David Rice Atchison - Talk about pop culture


Jeff Thompson was a large enough personage that his fictionalized self was made part of the book The Guilded Age: A Tale of Today by Mark Twain and Charles Dudley Warner in 1873.  It seems fitting, since the papers for the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad were drawn up in the offices of Sam Clemens' father.  Warner had been a surveyor/engineer on the railroad, so he was acquainted with Thompson.

On laying a straight line:


An early Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad locomotive
"The Colonel hitched up his chair close to Harry, laid his hand on his knee, and, first looking about him, said in a low voice, 'The Salt Lick Pacific Extension is going to run through Stone's Landing! The Almighty never laid out a cleaner piece of level prairie for a city; and it's the natural center of all that region of hemp and tobacco.'

'What makes you think the road will go there? It's twenty miles, on the map, off the straight line of the road?'

'You can't tell what is the straight line till the engineers have been over it. Between us, I have talked with Jeff Thompson, the division engineer. He understands the wants of Stone's Landing, and the claims of the inhabitants—who are to be there. Jeff says that a railroad is for—the accommodation of the people and not for the benefit of gophers; and if, he don't run this to Stone's Landing he'll be damned! You ought to know Jeff; he's one of the most enthusiastic engineers in this western country, and one of the best fellows that ever looked through the bottom of a glass.'

The recommendation was not undeserved. There was nothing that Jeff wouldn't do, to accommodate a friend, from sharing his last dollar with him, to winging him in a duel. When he understood from Col. Sellers. how the land lay at Stone's Landing, he cordially shook hands with that gentleman, asked him to drink, and fairly roared out, 'Why, God bless my soul, Colonel, a word from one Virginia gentleman to another is 'nuff ced.' There's Stone's Landing been waiting for a railroad more than four thousand years, and damme if she shan't have it.'''

Jeff Thompson and Senator Atchison


"The fever at length got tired of tormenting the stout young engineer, who lay sick at the hotel, and left him, very thin, a little sallow but an 'acclimated' man. Everybody said he was 'acclimated' now, and said it cheerfully. What it is to be acclimated to western fevers no two persons exactly agree.

Some say it is a sort of vaccination that renders death by some malignant type of fever less probable. Some regard it as a sort of initiation, like that into the Odd Fellows, which renders one liable to his regular dues thereafter. Others consider it merely the acquisition of a habit of taking every morning before breakfast a dose of bitters, composed of whiskey and assafoetida, out of the acclimation jug.

Jeff Thompson afterwards told Philip that he once asked Senator Atchison, then acting Vice-President of the United States, about the possibility of acclimation; he thought the opinion of the second officer of our great government would be valuable on this point. They were sitting together on a bench before a country tavern, in the free converse permitted by our democratic habits.

'I suppose, Senator, that you have become acclimated to this country?'

'Well,' said the Vice-President, crossing his legs, pulling his wide-awake down over his forehead, causing a passing chicken to hop quickly one side by the accuracy of his aim, and speaking with senatorial deliberation, 'I think I have. I've been here twenty-five years, and dash, dash my dash to dash, if I haven't entertained twenty-five separate and distinct earthquakes, one a year. The niggro is the only person who can stand the fever and ague of this region.'"

This last statement attributed to Atchison was not totally untrue. Malaria caused by Plasmodium vivax was a tremendous problem in the United States since it had been introduced by the Spanish conquistadors. One of the reasons that enslavement of West Africans was needed in the Southern agricultural economy was that the Africans lacked Duffy's antigen (a blood cell protein) and they were immune to vivax malaria. The parasite was denied a portal into their red blood cells. Sickle-cell trait also made black slaves resistant to the most virulent form of malaria caused by P. falciparum.

On drinking corn liquor properly


"Mr. Jeff Thompson, for it was the camp of this redoubtable engineer, gave the travelers a hearty welcome, offered them ground room in his own tent, ordered supper, and set out a small jug, a drop from which he declared necessary on account of the chill of the evening.

'I never saw an Eastern man,' said Jeff, 'who knew how to drink from a jug with one hand. It's as easy as lying. So.' He grasped the handle with the right hand, threw the jug back upon his arm, and applied his lips to the nozzle. It was an act as graceful as it was simple. 'Besides,' said Mr. Thompson, setting it down, 'it puts every man on his honor as to quantity.'"



Sing, sing a song, sing out loud, sing out strong

"Early to turn in was the rule of the camp, and by nine o'clock everybody was under his blanket, except Jeff himself, who worked awhile at his table over his field-book, and then arose, stepped outside the tent door and sang, in a strong and not unmelodious tenor, the Star Spangled Banner from beginning to end. It proved to be his nightly practice to let off the unexpended steam of his conversational powers, in the words of this stirring song.
It was a long time before Philip got to sleep. He saw the fire light, he saw the clear stars through the tree-tops, he heard the gurgle of the stream, the stamp of the horses, the occasional barking of the dog which followed the cook's wagon, the hooting of an owl; and when these failed he saw Jeff, standing on a battlement, mid the rocket's red glare, and heard him sing, 'Oh, say, can you see?' It was the first time he had ever slept on the ground."

Although a Star Spangled Banner singing Thompson may seem at odds with his Civil War career as a Confederate, he felt himself a loyal American.  Of his flag-lowering at the Post Office he remarked, "I had cut down the flag that I had once loved.  I had as yet drawn no blood from its defenders, but I was now determined to strike it down wherever I found it."


Getting There



From Frederick Avenue in St. Joseph, turn north onto Mt. Mora Rd, which is between 14th Street and 17th Street.  Once in the cemetery gates, take the first right and follow it up the hill to the triangle between Section B and Section L.

Every time that I have passed this gravesite, it is decorated with US flags.  Not sure why, unless they consider his antebellum career in the Missouri State Militia to be US service.  More and more I see the graves of staunch Confederates decorated with the US flag.  All I can say is that I don't like it, especially if their only military service was to the CSA.  The battle flag of the Army of Northern Virginia has been appropriated by hate groups and has been banished from most public places.  Most Confederate soldiers never fought under that flag.  Most of them fought under their own state's flag, specially designed unit flag or the first national flag of the Confederacy.  The flags of 1864 and 1865 did incorporate the battle flag blue cross and white stars on a red background with a white or white and red field.   I have been known to plunk the CSA's first national flag down on a Confederate's grave when I can find them.  I guess that is my act of rebellion.

First National Flag of the Confederate States of America

Waypoint:  Latitude 39.775503 N; Longitude 94.841077 W




Monday, December 14, 2015

Grave Matters: President for a Day (Not)

Portrait of David Atchison by
George Caleb Bingham
Every election cycle, some smug smart-aleck is going to ask if you know who the US president with the shortest term in office. They will probably want the answer: David Rice Atchison, who was President of the United States for one day on 04 March 1849. How did this go down? Zachary Taylor won the 1848 Presidential election, and his inauguration was to take place on 04 March 1849 (because the US Constitution took effect on 04 March 1789). According to the story, President-elect Zachary Taylor refused to be sworn-in on Sunday for religious reasons, and he and Vice-President elect Millard Fillmore were inaugurated on 05 March. Since President Polk's term ended on 04 March, many people think that there was an interregnum during which there was either no official President or no government. Without an inaugurated President or Vice-President, the thought is that the job of "acting President" falls to the next person in line, in this case President pro tempore of the Senate - David Rice Atchison, Senator from Missouri.


Atchison foot marker
I really hate to throw a wet blanket on a great party, but that is really a stretch. The Constitution does not state the the president-elect had to take the oath of office on 04 March to be considered President, just that they take the oath before they perform the official duties of the office. Zachary Taylor became president on 04 March, but was not required to take the oath on that day since no official business was conducted. In fact, that is the real reason that Taylor's swearing-in was delayed; the government was closed for business on Sundays.

David Rice Atchison headstone
This was not the first time that the official Inauguration Day should have been a Sunday. In 1821, March 04 was a Sunday at the start of James Monroe's second term, and the inauguration was held the next day. No controversy arose since Monroe effectively succeeded himself.  The Consitution does not distinguish between a first term and subsequent terms, in which case Monroe ceased to be President on 04 March and the Senate President pro tempore would have been acting president until March 05 by the "President Atchison" argument. Monroe was comfortable postponing taking the oath of office after consulting with Supreme Court Chief Justice John Marshall, who saw no legal impediment. Inauguration Day fell on Sunday, 04 March 1877 at Rutherford B. Hayes' term, but he avoided the interregnum issue by taking the oath privately on Saturday 03 March and publicly on 05 March.  Woodrow Wilson took the oath privately on Sunday, 04 March 1917 and publicly on the 5th.




Since the adoption of the 20th Amendment, which changed Inauguration Day to 20 January, Presidents Eisenhower, Reagan and Obama have been publicly sworn in on Monday, 21 January because Sundays are not federal office days. No problems were perceived with these modern delayed swearing-ins because they occurred at the second term for each AND these Presidents avoided the issue altogether by following Wilson's precedent and taking the oath of office privately on Sunday and again publicly on Monday.

David Rice Atchison was not "President for a Day" by any realistic stretch of the law. Even Atchison did not consider himself to have been president, when asked about it in 1882: "It was in this way: Polk went out of office on the 3d of March 1849, on Saturday at 12 noon. The next day, the 4th, occurring on Sunday, Gen. Taylor was not inaugurated. He was not inaugurated till Monday, the 5th, at 12 noon. It was then canvassed among Senators whether there was an interregnum (a time during which a country lacks a government). It was plain that there was either an interregnum or I was the President of the United States being chairman of the Senate, having succeeded Judge Magnum of North Carolina. The judge waked me up at 3 o'clock in the morning and said jocularly that as I was President of the United States he wanted me to appoint him as secretary of state. I made no pretense to the office, but if I was entitled in it I had one boast to make, that not a woman or a child shed a tear on account of my removing any one from office during my incumbency of the place. A great many such questions are liable to arise under our form of government".

What a bummer for Missouri tourism, right? Eh...why let facts get in the way of a good story? There are still plenty of documents bragging on the "President for a Day" and the "First President from Missouri". Personally, I find satisfaction in debunking the myth because this trivial designation really takes away from Atchison's true impact on American history. He is memorialized in at least three place names: Atchison, KS; Atchison County, KS; and Atchison County, MO.  In my estimation, David Rice Atchison carries more responsibility for starting the American Civil War than any one other person.

Antebellum Atchison


David Rice Atchison 1850
David Rice Atchison was born in Frogtown, Kentucky on 11 August 1807.  He attended college at Transylvania University in Lexington and counted among his classmates Jefferson Davis, later President of the Confederacy.  He began reading law and was admitted to the Kentucky Bar in 1829.

Atchison's association with Missouri began in 1830 when he moved to Liberty in Clay County and took up law practice there.  The practice flourished and he counted among his clients Joseph Smith, prophet and founder of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (LDS).  Atchison represented Smith and the LDS in disputes with non-LDS landowners in Caldwell (Far West) and Daviess (Adam-ondi-Ahman) counties.

David Atchison's first foray into politics was his election to the Missouri State House of Representatives in 1834, an office he was re-elected to in 1838.  During this time, Atchison served on a commission that pushed for the Platte Purchase, which was completed in 1836.  The land to the west of a line due north of the mouth of the Kansas (Kaw) River and east of the Missouri River was reserved for American Indian use.  The addition of this land to Missouri made it the largest state (by area) in the United States at the time.  The extension of slavery into this new area was also a violation of the Missouri Compromise of 1820, which blocked the extension of slavery in lands gained by the Louisiana Purchase north of 36 degrees 30 minutes north, except for the boundaries of Missouri as defined in 1820.  This would not be the last time that Atchison's actions attacked the Missouri Compromise.

1838 Mormon War Conflict Site map by John Hamer
During 1838, the conflict between the LDS Church (Mormons) and non-Mormons came to a head.  The church was a victim of its own success.  As converts to the LDS church grew, they gathered together into settlements and controlled the politics of the area by voting in blocs.  Resentment from non-Mormon settlers led to the expulsion of the church from Jackson County in 1833.  As the LDS members moved into Clay County, Atchison's law partner, Alexander Doniphan, pushed forward a law establishing Caldwell County as a place for Mormon settlement in 1836.  In 1837, in the wake of a bank failure scandal in Kirtland, OH the church moved its headquarters to Far West, MO.  The sudden influx of church members resulted in the establishment of new settlements in Daviess and Carroll Counties.

Needless to say, this caused hurt feelings among settlers who felt that they were being invaded by people who had been given their own place.  In a country where Whigs and Democrats were evenly balanced, the Mormon influx changed the political landscape.  Long story short, the conflicts prompted Governor Lilburn Boggs to issue Missouri Executive Order 44 ("Extermination Order") which said "the Mormons must be treated as enemies and must be exterminated or driven from the State if necessary".  During this conflict Atchison and Doniphan both were appointed generals in the state militia and were among the leaders attempting to suppress violence done by non-Mormons and Mormons to each other.

After he had served out his terms in the Missouri legislature, Atchison was named a circuit judge in Platte County in 1841.  Late in 1843, Atchison became a US Senator, the first from western Missouri, when he was appointed to fill the vacancy created by the death of Lewis Linn.  David Atchison had tremendous skill as a politician, and Atchison was elected President pro tempore of the US Senate on 13 different occasions from 1846-1854 to preside over the Senate when the vice-president was absent.  From 20 December 1852 - 04 December 1854, Atchison was effectively the acting vice-president, since there was no sitting vice-president at the time.  Millard Fillmore had become president at the death of Zachary Taylor, so there was no vice-president from 09 July 1850 until 04 March 1853.  Franklin Pierce was elected president in 1852 with William R. King as vice-president.  King was ill with tuberculosis and in Cuba when he took the oath of office on 24 March 1853.  King died on 18 April 1853 without ever executing duties as vice-president, leaving the position vacant until the next election, so any Senate President pro tempore serving 18 April 1853 - 03 March 1857 was essentially the acting vice-president.

Was David Rice Atchison a  President of the US? No.  A Vice-President of the US? Maybe.  Missouri State Representative, Major General in Missouri Militia, US Senator, US Senate President pro tempore?  Yes, Yes, Yes, Yes.  How did this guy light the fire that started the US Civil War?  Stay tuned to this BatChannel for more.

Getting There


Well, dead guys don't run fast, so it is easy enough to track them down.  MO-116 runs right through Plattsburg, and is easily reached from US-169, I-35 or MO-13.  In Plattsburg, turn south on County Highway C.  Several adjoining cemeteries can be found on the south side of town.  Follow the signs to the Atchison grave.

Waypoint:  Latitude: 39.5580724 N; Longitude:  94.4458898 W

Thursday, November 5, 2015

Slipping the Chains of Matrimony: Abraham Lincoln and Mary Owens

Northeast corner of Pleasant Ridge Baptist Church

Pleasant Ridge Baptist Church


One of the things I enjoy is finding new ways to get home.  Driving the backroads is a welcome break from the US-169 to I-29 to I-435 to MO-45 to MO-9 and back every day coming to and from work.  County Highway P east from Weston, MO is a pretty little drive with lots of fields and houses, old and new.  Around one turn of Hwy P is a cemetery with some noticeably old headstones intermingled with newer stones.  Next to that is a quaint little one-story brick church with a gabled roof based in the Greek Revival style.

Historic marker
Pleasant Ridge United Baptist Church was built in 1844 by a Missionary Baptist splinter group from a Old School/Hard Shell Baptist congregation.  John W. Vineyard, Joseph Nower, William Gabbert, and Jacob Cox each provided a quarter-section of land (center of Section 5; Township 53N; Range 35W) to be used to build the church and cemetery.  The bricks were fired in a kiln located on the Vineyard farm.  The material was likely from the Pennsylvanian Era Weston Shale, which is about 80 feet thick and outcrops between the Stanton Limestone formation and the Iatan Limestone.  When the building was constructed, it had a balcony gallery for slaves and a door in the south wall (now bricked over) for access to the cemetery.  The builder was John Sanford and the founding minister was Rev. Albert P. Williams.

South side of church with bricked over door in gap between windows
The church has been used by a congregation for most of its existence.  The building survived a roof collapse in 1861 and fire in 1868.  It was likely in this time frame that the slave gallery disappeared.  Metal Corinthian columns were installed in 1882, the pews were installed in 1902, and globe lights date to the electrification of the building in 1930.  The building was not used from about 1939 to the 1950s, but has been occupied by a congregation ever since.

Mary Owens Vineyard


Mary Vineyard grave marker
You never know where you will stumble across the marker of a historically significant figure, but you'll almost always come across interesting headstones as you walk through a graveyard.  On my walk through the graveyard, I ran across the stones of what turned out to be some of the founding members of the church, the Vineyards.  At least one meeting that led to the founding of the church took place in  John Vineyard's log schoolhouse.  In all there were three Vineyard brothers: John, Jesse and Bryce (Brice).  The Vineyard brothers were educators and founded an academy located about a half mile to the south of the church.  The academy was known as Pleasant Ridge College.  The chapel of the college was used as a meeting place for the congregation while repairs were being made to the church following the 1861 roof collapse.

Jesse Vineyard's family headstones occupy a place of prominence towards the front of the cemetery and near the church.  One of the best preserved stones there is that of Mary S. Vineyard, Jesse's wife.  Jesse's partly broken headstone is next to Mary's.  He had died in 1862 and Mary followed in 1877.

New marker placed by Robert Bloch of the Block Foundation
Mary's grave had a newer marker in front of it and upon moving towards it, I found the stone to the left, which stated that Mary S. Vineyard was none other than Mary S. Owens Vineyard - the woman who had turned down (to his consternation AND relief) the marriage proposal of a young(ish) Abraham Lincoln.  Even though we are surrounded by memorials and burials of giants of western expansion, it seemed fantastic that this person I had read of in biographies of Lincoln was actually buried in the old Platte Purchase.  However, it takes just a cursory look at old letters to see that Mary Owens is indeed buried in Weston, MO.

So how does one meet an Abraham Lincoln, attract his attention and then turn down his proposal?  All of that seems to be a comedy of runaway circumstance viewed through the lens of what would become, not what was at that time.  While Abraham Lincoln was building his reputation, he was far from "The Great Emancipator" or "Savior of the Union" when all of this took place.

In 1831, while building a flatboat for Dennis Offut, Lincoln lived with a man named Bowling Green.  This man had lived in Kentucky, and knew the Hanks family fairly well.  He would judge that Abraham had inherited his good sense from his mother Nancy Hanks' family.  Lincoln grew close to Mr. Green and came to view him as a mentor and the father to whom he wished he had been born.  When Thomas Lincoln lay dying, Abraham refused to see him, but when Green died suddenly in 1842, Lincoln was profoundly affected and fell into a deep depression.  One of Mr. Green's neighbors was a woman named Elizabeth Abell.  Lincoln struck up a friendship with the Abell family and lived with them off and on in New Salem, Illinois for several years.


Abraham Lincoln c. 1847
After the death of Ann Rutledge in 1835 from typhoid fever (a woman thought by many to be Lincoln's first love), Lincoln became quite depressed, a sight that pained Mrs. Abell greatly.  When interviewed after Lincoln's assassination, she described him as social, lively, good natured, never rash, backwards, not eccentric but also not visionary.  She thought of him as the best natured man that she ever knew.  These qualities led her to try to play matchmaker between Lincoln and her sister, Mary Owens.  One of the stories is that Mrs. Abell told Lincoln in 1834 that she was going back to Kentucky and told him that she would bring her sister back if Lincoln agreed to marry the sister, to which he jokingly assented.

The proposition got a bit more real when Mrs. Abell left on her visit.  At this point, Lincoln was a bit excited.  He had met Mary Owens in 1833 briefly and recalled her as being a "handsome" woman, intelligent, good conversationalist and lively.  Reading letters to friends, you can see that he would lean to excitement, then dread.  When she got there in 1836/7, he noticed that she had gained quite a bit of weight, had lost some teeth, and somehow was not as animated as he remembered.  It may be also that he weighed the poverty of his upbringing with the wealth of the Owens family.  The difference in social position worried him a bit, but he entered into correspondence with her when he left for the state legislature in Vandalia, IL.   In the end, he was determined to keep his word but to his initial relief (followed by feeling insulted) Mary declined his proposal.  She would later say "I think I did on one occasion say to my sister, who was very anxious for us to be married, that I thought Mr. Lincoln was deficient in those little links which make up the great chain of woman's happiness."

Mary Owens left New Salem in 1838 and never wrote to Lincoln again.  She went back to Kentucky and married Jesse Vineyard in 1841/2.  This was probably a better match, as Jesse lived the academic life that was valued by the Owens family at the time. Jesse was well schooled in proper etiquette (a deficiency in the young Lincoln) as well as being well to do.  When he started the college at Pleasant Ridge, he was a slave-owning gentleman farmer.  The family retained much of its Kentucky flavor and it is said that Mary Vineyard's sons served the Confederacy during the Civil War, although I cannot substantiate that claim using available databases.  It would make almost as good a story as Lincoln's Confederate brothers-in-law and cousins!

Six degrees....


After this blog entry was published, one of my friends from high school, Gale Vineyard, wrote a note that Mary Owens Vineyard was her great-great-grandmother.  Good thing that I didn't go to elementary school with Gale.  I can see THAT show-and-tell day.  Me:  Here is my bust of Abraham Lincoln (Avon aftershave decanter).  Gale:  Here are my great-great-grandmother's letters from Abraham Lincoln!  How does a kid compete with that?  (Howls, Howls of laughter!).

Getting There


From MO-45 south of Weston, turn east onto Co Hwy P and follow about a mile and half to Woodruff Road.


Waypoint: Latitude: 39.432600 N; Longitude: 94.854612 W
Street Address: 18797 N Co Rd P, Weston, MO 







Further Reading


Abraham Lincoln, Mary Owens and the Accidental Engagement

Abraham Lincoln and Mary Owens

National Register of Historic Places Application

Mr. Lincoln and Friends