Rock Creek Station XP: Where "Bill" Hickok Became "Wild"

McCanles fight according to legend

James Butler "Wild Bill" Hickok is another of the Western men whose legend eclipsed the man.  Dime novel hero, crack pistol shot, cold eyed killer, a fine specimen of rugged Western manhood, protector of feminine virtue, gambler, lawman.  Finding the event that gave birth to the legend is not difficult, but wrestling away fiction from fact is another story, altogether.  The birthplace of the "Wild Bill" legend is Rock Creek Station, near Fairbury, Nebraska and his fight with the "notorious McCanles Gang".

Much of Wild Bill's legend stemmed from his physical presence.  A large muscular man with steel gray eyes, flowing auburn locks and mustache, he was attractive to the ladies and intimidating to other men.  From a young age, he trained himself to be a crack shot, and loved to have an audience at target practice.  The more people that knew he could shoot well, the fewer he would likely have to fight.  By all accounts, he was calm under fire, and once he decided to shoot, he would shoot to kill.

One of the players in the Rock Creek incident, Sarah Shull remembered Hickok:  "Hickok has steel-blue eyes that were beautiful and gentle but could change in a second and look dangerous.  You had better watch his eyes; he wasn't one to run from a fight."

Wild Bill and the McCanles Gang - According to Hickok (Abridged)

Reconstructed Rock Creek Station Cabin

When recounting the story of shooting at Rock Creek Station, Bill paints Dave McCanles as the bully leader of a gang of murdering desparadoes, horse-thieving cutthroats who terrorized settlers on the Nebraska-Kansas border.  Hickok states that he was a scout for the US cavalry bringing through soldiers from Camp Floyd when he rode up to the station on 12 July 1861.  He says he found the station superintendent's wife in hysterics, her husband shot dead.  Hickok was in the house when the Gang rode up dragging a minister to the station by the neck with a rope.

Dave McCanles c. 1859

Recognizing Hickok's horse, McCanles comes into the front door of the station cabin with a gun drawn.  Hickock shoots Dave McCanles through the heart, which only enrages the nine men with him.  As the men poured into the cabin, Hickok opens up with his pistol, killing four more men.  The fight becomes a desperate hand to hand struggle during which Hickok shoots one man, knocks another one out before he is shot with shotgun pellets and struck with a rifle butt.  In the confused fight he gains a knife and starts slashing at the rest of the men, eventually subduing them all before walking a way, falling into a faint.  He claims to be shot with 11 buck shot and cut in 13 places, all of the knife wounds being life-threatening.

It is a great story and really entertained Colonel George Ward Nichols, who wrote it up for Harper's Weekly in 1867.  Problem is, it is a story and a greatly inflated one at that.  When Hickok was put on trial for McCanles' murder, there was not a scratch on him.  Furthermore, the dead superintendent, felled by a shot in the head, was present at the trial as a co-defendant.  There were not 11 dead men at the station, rather there were only three; McCanles; his cousin and a hired-hand of McCanles'.  There is also no pay record that would substantiate Hickok's claim that he was serving as a scout for the cavalry.

Getting to Rock Creek - Wild Bill

James Butler "Wild Bill" Hickok

Like many other colorful figures of the American West, James Butler Hickok was born in what seems to be a much tamer environment, Homer (now Troy Grove) Illinois on 27 May 1837.  Raised by devout Baptist parents, William and Polly (Butler) Hickok, young James yearned for fame and honed his shooting skills as soon as he could.  His parents became caught up in the abolitionist movement, and the family home reportedly served as a station on the "Underground Railroad".  Once his father died, James provided game for the family to eat, relying on those sharpshooting skills.

In June 1856, James headed out west for the newly opened Kansas Territory.  At this time, settlers were strongly polarized into pro-slavery (Missourians/Border Ruffians) and anti-slavery (Free State/Free Soil/Jayhawkers) factions.  James Butler Hickok joined with James Lane's Free State "army" and became Lane's personal bodyguard.  Hickok was also looking for land to farm and staked a 160 acre claim in modern-day Lenexa, Kansas.  He was elected a constable in Monticello Township, Johnson County, Kansas in 1858.

Setup of the inside of the cabin

It was during this time that James Hickok started using the aliases William Hickok and William Haycock.  He would also be nicknamed Shanghai Bill and Dutch Bill, although it is difficult to see the reasons.  Finding out that his claim had been preempted, Bill struck out to see more of the West.  He was employed first as a teamster for the freighting company of Jones and Cartwright from 1858 - April 1861.  He arrived at Rock Creek Station shortly after Horace Wellman took over as station superintendent for Russell, Majors and Waddell's Pony Express.  Exactly what Bill's role was at the station is unknown, since there is no evidence that he was actually an employee of Russell, Majors and Waddell.  It is possible that Wellman personally hired him as a stockhandler or even as an enforcer.

Getting to Rock Creek - Dave McCanles

Reconstruction of West Ranch building

Not nearly as much is known about the other man that figures in this fight, David Colbert McCanles.  We know he was born in Iredell County, North Carolina on 20 November 1828 and moved with his family to Watauga County, NC.  Records show that he served as deputy sheriff of Watauga County from 1852-1856 and sheriff from 1856-1859.  Descriptions picture him as a large, powerful man.  He married young, listed as a farmer in Watauga County in 1850 with wife Mary (18 years) and son William M. (Monroe), age 1.

Reconstructed toll bridge between West and East Ranches

David later took a mistress, Sarah Shull, abandoning his family by 1859 and heading west with Sarah.  Originally headed to the Colorado gold fields, he was dissuaded from traveling all of the way by returning and disappointed gold-seekers.  He bought the Rock Creek Station property from Newton and S.C. Glenn.  The property was crossed by the Oregon-California Trail and did a business in supplying emigrants and serving as a campground.  He soon built a toll bridge over the creek there, charging 10-50 cents per wagon to cross.  The original ranch was on the west side of the creek, but he was soon able to set up a ranch on the east side, as well.  Apparently having a change of heart about his family, he sent east for his wife and children, but Sarah remained as a "domestic".  What Mary thought of this arrangement I do not know, but it was likely not comfortable.

Census entry for McCanles family in Jones County, Nebraska Territory, 1860

Reconstructed bunkhouse of East Ranch

It is agreed that Dave McCanles was a man who liked to have his way, and he would push other people around to further his desires.  It is thought that the appearance of Hickok in the community upset the balance of power in the neighborhood,  Many historians suggest that Sarah Shull was taken with Hickock and welcomed his advances, inciting McCanles' jealousy, although Sarah later stated that this was not so.  Even if this is true, it was only a contributing factor to the fight.  The most immediate cause was McCanles' impatience with collecting a debt from Russell, Majors and Waddell, whose company was bankrupt following the loss of mail contracts.

Stable and corral

Russell, Majors and Waddell's Central Overland California and Pike's Peak Express Company had leased the east ranch from McCanles in 1861, then arranged to buy it in April 1861 for 1/3 down, with the rest of the payment due in three monthly installments.  At that time the company was not making payroll on time and was behind on the payments.  Having been left holding the bag by a freight company one other time, McCanles was determined to either get his money or get his property back.  He just wasn't entirely sure whether the company was not going to pay up, or if Wellman had already received the money, but was keeping it for himself.

Rock Creek Station Accomodations - Sir Richard Burton

Sir Richard Burton c. 1875 painting by Frederic Leighton

Noted explorer Sir Richard Burton (not the actor, rather the translator of The Arabian Nights), stayed here on 08 August 1860 and wrote in his book City of the Saints, and Across the Rocky Mountains to California:

"A weary drive over a rough and dusty road, through chill night air and clouds of musquetoes, which we were warned would accompany us to the Pacific slope of the Rocky Mountains, placed us about 10 P.M. at Rock, also called Turkey Creek surely a misnomer ; no turkey ever haunted so villainous a spot! Several passengers began to suffer from fever and nausea ; in such travel the second night is usually the crisis, after which a man can endure for an indefinite time. The 'ranch' was a nice place for invalids, especially for those of the softer sex. Upon the bedded floor of the foul "doggery" lay, in a seemingly promiscuous heap, men, women, children, lambs, and puppies, all fast in the arms of Morpheus, and many under the influence of a much jollier god. The employes, when aroused pretty roughly, blinked their eyes in the atmosphere of smoke and musquetoes, and declared that it had been 'merry in hall' that night the effects of which merriment had not passed off. After half an hour's dispute about who should do the work, they produced cold scraps of mutton and a kind of bread which deserves a totally distinct generic name. The strongest stomachs of ,the party made tea, and found some milk which was not more than' one quarter flies. This succulent meal was followed by the usual douceur. On this road, however mean or wretched the fare, the station- keeper, who is established by the proprietor of the line, never derogates by lowering his price." Burton would declare Rock Creek Station "the ne plus ultra of Western discomfort".

The McCanles Murder According to Monroe McCanles (Abridged)

Front door of cabin, Oregon Trail coming from left

Monroe would say that Dave McCanles, James Woods, James Gordon and himself arrived unarmed at the East Ranch.  His father directed him to stay outside and entered the cabin.  A shot rang out and Dave stumbled out, collapsed and died trying to say something to his son, but was unable.  Woods and Gordon had been looking for McCanles stock and harness, but hearing the shot, ran up to the house.  Woods approached from the rear and Gordon approached from the front.  Both were apparently shot by Hickok.  Grabbing a hoe, Mrs. Wellman chased off Monroe, started yelling "Kill them all" and hacked Woods to death with the hoe.  Gordon made a break for the timber, but was followed by his dog, which gave his whereabouts away.  It was unclear who fired the shot that killed Gordon, and he was buried on the spot.  Monroe was able to follow a dry creek bed to safety, and alert his mother to what had happened.  The mother then sent for Dave McCanles' brother James, who alerted authorities in Beatrice, Nebraska.

Rock Creek property after the McCanles affair

What really happened?

Hickok at about the time of the Rock Creek Station incident

Nobody can really know for sure, but by cutting the stories from the two camps down the middle, we can probably come pretty close.  This is likely a fight that is more about McCanles and Wellman than Hickok.  David McCanles had accused Jane Wellman's father of stealing, and had allegedly beaten the older man earlier.  Earlier in the month, McCanles had sent his son Monroe with Wellman to try to collect payment from the section head of the Central Overland Company in Brownville, Nebraska.  While they were away, McCanles tried to push Mrs. Wellman into turning over the ranch property to him.  She had no use for McCanles and let him have an earful.

David McCanles usually carried a shotgun on his saddle and two pistols on his person, which was not unusual in this place at that time.  It is reasonable to assume that he was armed on 12 July 1861.  He likely brought Monroe with him to convince the Wellmans that he did not expect violence.  Both versions of the story say that David approached the ranch house and asked to see Wellman.  He was probably not expecting to see Hickok in the house.  McCanles made it clear that he wanted to see Wellman and expected him to come out or be dragged out.  Seeing some movement in the back of the house (which would have been dark) he asked for a drink of water, which Hickok got him, before Hickok stepped back into the house.  A gunshot rang out, striking McCanles in the chest.  Who fired it is unknown, but it was likely a nervous Wellman.

Subpoena for Monroe McCanles

If Wellman fired the shot, Hickok may not have immediately known which man shot, but he was now committed to the fight. Seeing Woods and Gordon rushing to the house, and having to assume that they were armed, it is likely that Hickok shot both of them with his pistol. Jane Wellman wanted blood and called for all of them to be killed, taking a swipe at Monroe McCanles with the grubbing hoe, before turning it on the badly wounded Woods and hacking him to death. Monroe and Gordon both ran for cover, but Gordon's dog followed him into the brush, and the station hands followed the dog to Gordon. It is not clear who fired the final shotgun blast, although it may have been J.W. "Doc" Brink.

Criminal complaint against Dutch Bill,
Wellman and Brink

Monroe ran home to tell his mother what happened. The following day, James (LeRoy) McCanles swore out a criminal complaint of murder in Beatrice, Gage County, Nebraska against "Dutch Bill, Dock and Wellman (thier other names not known) committed the same". It has been alleged that McCanles made fun of Hickok by calling him "Duck Bill" because his upper lip protruded over his lower lip, but a misspelling in other court documents referring to "Duch Bill" probably gave rise to the notion. Another good story bites the dust.


When the arresting party arrived at Rock Creek Station on 15 July, the station men went along peacefully. The trial was speedy, occurring 15, 16 and 18 July 1861. Although Monroe was subpoenaed, the judge in the case refused to let him testify (perhaps because of his age) and had him removed from the courtroom during testimony. With only the stationmen's testimony to go by, and given the threats apparently issued by McCanles to Wellman, the judge ruled that the men had acted in self-defense.

Bunkhouse with stable and corral behind

Was this a proud moment in the Hickok legend? Certainly not, but as the legend grew in popularity, he was likely caught up in the story as much as he had been in the original events. Some McCanles relatives and allies would like you to believe that Hickok was a complete fraud, a coward and a murderer of a quiet family man. Some Hickok allies would like you to believe that he was a superhero who rid the neighborhood of a wicked bully. Hickok's reputation would not have risen to the level it did if he was without bravery or virtue, and there would be no sympathy for McCanles had he been completely evil. They were humans, and in this case caught up in events that took on a life of their own. Stories without heroes and villains are not comfortable, and this is a very uncomfortable story. You can find reason to sympathize with and also dislike each of the major characters in this story. Nope, not real satisfying, but interesting all the same.

The Dime Novel

Most of the dime novels were complete fabrications or there was nugget of truth in the premise of the story that was greatly exaggerated.  The problem with these stories when they make characters out of live people, is that you lose the boundaries of what is real and what is fantasy.  When you tell tall tales often enough, the story becomes the fact.  My favorite illustration of this process is from the miniseries Wild Times, starring Sam Elliot as Hugh Cardiff, a Buffalo Bill-like character.  The following is a scene in which three shootists including Cardiff are telling tall tales to a dime novel author:

[Hugh, Doc and Caleb are spinning yarns for Bob Halburton, a writer of western dime novels]

Hugh Cardiff: Bob, I recall the time that me and Caleb here was carryin' dispatches for an...

Doc Bogardus: That was, ah, Phil Sheridan, I recall.

Hugh Cardiff: Yeah, General Phil Sheridan. We was crossin' through some hostile Indian country and we got jumped by a band of forty Cheyenne.

Caleb Rice: And thirty Arapaho and two Ute.

Hugh Cardiff: And old Caleb here, he took care of thirteen of them Cheyenne with those two pistols you see hanging right there in that belt. And understand, Bob, he only fired twelve shots - now one of 'em went through two of those Indians and killed 'em both.

Caleb Rice: It had probably gone on and killed another one, except there weren't any more left. We had killed them all by that time.

It is easy enough for me to see Buffalo Bill and Wild Bill Hickok sitting around telling such stories to eastern greenhorns like George Nichols.

Last Laugh?

Rear Admirals Byron (left) and Bruce McCandless with USS McCandless

It is difficult to measure the value of one man in life against another.  Wild Bill Hickok served the US Army as a teamster, scout, and perhaps spy during the Civil War.  He was a lawman in Hays, Kansas and Abilene, Kansas and celebrity figure before he was killed in Deadwood, South Dakota by Jack McCall on 02 August 1876.  He died without children, so the Hickok contribution to American history stops there.  

Dave McCanles' son Julius, changed the name to McCandless, perhaps to escape notoriety, or just to match the actual spelling to the phonetic.  Julius' son Byron became a commodore in the US Navy (later updated to rear admiral), earning the Navy Cross as commander of the destroyer USS Caldwell during WWI.  During WWII, Byron was in charge of the San Diego Repair Base, earning the Legion of Merit for his performance and the ability of his command to return battle-damaged ships to service.  Commodore McCandless also designed the Flag of the President of the United States, as well as the Presidential Seal in 1945.  Byron's son Bruce McCandless attained the rank of rear admiral, earning the Congressional Medal of Honor for his performance on the cruiser USS San Francisco during the Battle of Savo Island (Guadalcanal) during WWII.  Bruce's son, Bruce II, became a naval aviator and an astronaut.  He served as CAPCOM during the Apollo 11 mission.  Bruce McCandless II flew on the Space Shuttle as a mission specialist twice, making the first untethered spacewalk in the history of human spaceflight.  The frigate USS McCandless (FF-1084) was named for Byron and Bruce McCandless.   Regardless of Dave McCanles' history, his family accounts for some of the most storied achievements of the 20th Century, and that legacy continues today.  Certainly any perceived debt owed society by David McCanles has been more than repaid by his offspring.

USS San Francisco Memorial at Land's End.  Note the battle damage on the salvaged section of the ship

Navy Cross Citation for Byron McCandless:

"For distinguished service in the line of his profession as commanding officer of the USS Caldwell, engaged in the important, exacting and hazardous duty of patrolling the waters infested with enemy submarines and mines, in escorting and protecting vitally important convoys of troops and supplies through these waters, and in offensive and defensive action, vigorously and unremittingly prosecuted against all forms of enemy naval activity."

Medal of Honor Citation for Bruce McCandless:

Lt. Commander Bruce McCandless

"For conspicuous gallantry and exceptionally distinguished service above and beyond the call of duty as communication officer of the U.S.S. San Francisco in combat with enemy Japanese forces in the battle off Savo Island, 12–13 November 1942. In the midst of a violent night engagement, the fire of a determined and desperate enemy seriously wounded Lt. Comdr. McCandless and rendered him unconscious, killed or wounded the admiral in command, his staff, the captain of the ship, the navigator, and all other personnel on the navigating and signal bridges. Faced with the lack of superior command upon his recovery, and displaying superb initiative, he promptly assumed command of the ship and ordered her course and gunfire against an overwhelmingly powerful force. With his superiors in other vessels unaware of the loss of their admiral, and challenged by his great responsibility, Lt. Comdr. McCandless boldly continued to engage the enemy and to lead our column of following vessels to a great victory. Largely through his brilliant seamanship and great courage, the San Francisco was brought back to port, saved to fight again in the service of her country."

Bruce McCandless II during first untethered spacewalk

Getting There

From US-77, turn west onto NE-8. From NE-8, turn north onto 573rd Ave, then east onto 710th Rd, then follow the signs to Rock Creek Station State Historical Park. There is an entry fee ($5 daily entry or $25 yearly sticker for all Nebraska State Parks) for the park and admission to the museum on grounds.

Waypoint: Latitude: 40.113760 N; Longitude: 97.060900 W
Street Address: 57426 710th Road, Fairbury, NE 68352

Further Reading

Pro-McCanles Account

Pro-Hickok Account